MARHOFN 93.05 - MAY 2003

Tips for the tops

Brian Ewing: I am sure most folk appreciate the effort that must go into producing the newsletter. I especially appreciate the Tips for the Tops column. Being a fully paid-up member of the anti sitka-spruce society, I cannot thank enough those masochistic Marilyn baggers who have mutilated themselves in battle with sitkas in their quest for the top. On passing on their wisdom of how to avoid the sadistic sitkas to those like myself, I thank them.

Bainloch Hill (27C, LR84)

Graham Illing: Don't try this from the west unless you have a chainsaw. Tove said it looked like a fairy ring when I took off my shirt and a shower of pine needles poured out. We also met the gamekeeper on the way down, having just jumped over his stone wall. Being the day of the Countryside Alliance march and the fact that we were leaving, he limited his comments.

Carn Gorm (12B, LR26)

Richard Webb: Just after the first bridge on the Beauly road out of Cannich there is a small track going straight up the hill. This is useful as it leads to two gates through new forestry fences. Above the fences the going is rough. The main summit is cairned, but the east summit (675m on the OS map) is a big boulder 1.5m high. The 1:25000 map spot height does not coincide with the position of the boulder so it may be worth visiting both points.

Cnoc an t-Sabhail (15B, LR21)

Leslie Barrie: About a minute's walk from the trig point, in the direction of Dornoch Firth bridge, is an interesting inscribed stone tablet, standing upright below a peat bank, similar to stones seen on Mona Gowan and The Buck. It may have been sited as a boundary stone and sunk deeper into the peat in recent years. Anyway, a word of advice - the footpath shown on the OS map, which appears to end at a small lochan 200m SW of the summit, is relatively easy to follow in its lower reaches, but after it ends higher up in the forest begins a battle through densely planted and wind-blown trees. A more straightforward approach looks likely from the north-east at NH738828.

Sgreadan Hill (19B, LR68)

Graham Illing: Sgreadan Hill is now quite straightforward. Follow a good new forest road (unmapped) to about NR716286 until you meet an area of felled trees. Head straight up the hill, following big wheel-tracks until you hit a fire-break which leads to a 324m spot height at NR728290, then follow a simple bearing to the summit trig point.

Crowborough (42, LR188)

Blotchnie Fiold (23, LR5/6)

Jon Metcalf: The Landranger map is fine. What is not fine is the leaflet in the Rousay visitor room at the pier (and in Kirkwall tourist office) showing an RSPB track which it claims is marked out by white posts on the hill. The illustrated track is in a T shape, up to the Hass of Goustie col, then east to the summit, and west to the subsidiary Knitchen Hill trig. On the ground however the posts have been moved to form a loop, which could lead to all sorts of fun and games in the right conditions. I pointed this out to RSPB workers at the county fair later in the week, and got a 'oops, hadn't thought of that, we should post a notice'. Outstanding.

Mochrum Fell (27C, LR77/84)

Leslie Barrie: Turn left at a T-junction at NX730750, then immediately right onto another track, deeply rutted in places, which does not appear on the map. Follow this track to its end in a clearing of felled timber at NX727751, some 350m from the summit. The way ahead from the clearing to the summit may not appear obvious. However, the going is relatively straightforward, as the trees are well spaced. The trig point itself stands in a small clearing; the only view being skywards (where on my visit a buzzard was flying overhead). All in all, Mochrum Fell was a pleasant surprise - a much easier excursion than I'd been led to believe.

Gyrn Moelfre (30E, LR125)

Brent Lynam: Arrived to find some lambs road-wandering and the farmer from Ty-gwyn on a quad bike, redirecting them from the drive to Fron (perhaps he's anti-sheep as well as anti-walkers). Anyway, there's now a small notice at the entrance to Fron advising there is no longer a right-of-way through the property. Instead, the new ROW leaves the road via a stile at SJ179302, where there is parking room for one car. The path climbs the hillside and rejoins the old ROW at a gate at SJ180299, effectively bypassing Fron. Great walk - a wee stunner of a hill, one of my favourite Welsh Marilyns.

Mynydd Enlli (30A, LR123)

David Rawden: Quite a lot of persistence is needed in order to get to Bardsey Island, as the ferry is much dependent on the vagaries of weather and tide. Head for Uwchmynydd to the west of Aberdaron, where there is a National Trust car park with a gravel track leading to Porth Meudwy. The ferry, if running, leaves from here at about 10:30, returning mid-afternoon. Don't attempt to go on a Saturday as the boat is fully occupied with bird watchers and research students staying at the field centre. The boat trip is quite an adventure. A motor-boat anchors about 70 metres from the beach, and from there an inflatable comes in-shore. Wearing the life-jackets supplied, you are transferred to the motor-boat, which goes to the island at quite a speed. Unless the day is very hot and you need a cooling shower, you would be wise to sit in the front of the boat.

Getting information is not easy. The booking office in Aberdaron (phone 01758 760667) is theoretically open daily from 10am to 4pm in June, July and August. The Bardsey Island Trust officer, who is rather elusive, is Simon Glynn (01758 730740). It's best to phone at about 18:45 when you might be able to speak to him, but are more likely to get a recorded message. After a torrent of Welsh you hear in English whether the boat is running the next day.

Jon Metcalf: Phone the island trust on 01766 810663 to book a place on a trip. It is the same boat from Pwllheli on Saturdays, which stops off at Porth Meudwy on the way. It returns to the mainland after four hours. Adults £20 return.

Mynydd Eppynt (32A, LR147)

Graham Illing: Access to Mynydd Eppynt is a mystery no more. Having passed by the summit a number of times only to be put off by the numerous red flags, and on one occasion guns booming, I decided that a formal approach would be the best plan of attack, especially given comments in Marhofn 84. Unfortunately the number given on the sign at the entry to the firing range for the army base at Sennybridge is very old, and it took a couple of goes with directory enquiries before a successful number was extracted. To my pleasant surprise my request was very courteously and positively received by Major Howard Vaughan and Sergeant David Muirhead. It was clear that no other Marilyn baggers had made a request, although those interested in the wildlife and rally-car racing on Mynydd Eppynt had.

To cut a long story short, given firing on a Friday finishes at 15:30, Sergeant Muirhead accompanied me to the summit at 19:20. We went in his Land Rover along the summit ridge track (tarmac road actually) and then walked to the 475m trig point at SN928435 for good measure. We had fine panoramic views which I felt were just reward for the hassle of the near misses and getting permission. Definitely a case of Get On My Land (in controlled circumstances anyway). Contact details for permission: Major Howard Vaughan on 01874 635401 (email cos@senta.enta.net) or Sergeant David Muirhead on 01874 635462.

Incidentally, I discussed Gary Honey's experience described in Marhofn 84 (no names or secrets revealed) only to get a good laugh and confirmation that there is no intruder alarm in the area. Maybe the sound from someone's car alarm or house alarm had been carried on the wind.

Mark Trengove: I think this fine hill is not fitted for the Hall of Shame. With proper planning (see page 5) it can take its place as an excellent tick. Armed with my range pass from Sennybridge army camp, I took the traditional short stroll to the summit from the B4519. I could have made more of it I think, if time had not been pressing.

The sergeant at Sennybridge said they discouraged general rambling in this area on non-firing days because of the large number of shells lying around, but I think a longer walk could be arranged to the summit from Llangammarch Wells, especially over the Christmas / new year period. He said the majority of people he met requesting access were not hill walkers but Druid types wishing to visit the standing stones which litter the plateau.

I did have time to stop the car at a number of points along the B4519, savour this marvellous wilderness area and take a few photographs. Some day I intend to go back and give Mynydd Eppynt the attention it deserves. Perhaps the army may tire of individual walkers asking for access. I'd be happy to arrange a Marhof expedition some time and make a day of it. Anyone interested can contact me by email to marktrengove@hotmail.com or at 4, Trem-y-Foel, Sychdyn, Mold, Flintshire, CH7 6HA.

Alan Dawson: I chose to stack the odds in favour of success by nipping along the track from the main road in rain, mist and darkness during the Christmas / new year holiday week. This worked well. I didn't think it would be a popular tactic, but I subsequently discovered that Chris Upson was up there later the same night, when it was darker, wetter and mistier. Rather relieved I didn't bump into him.

Bengairn (27C, LR84)

Richard Webb: Any approach other than from Bengairn Loch up the ridge will run into big electric fences.

Upper Park (31A, LR125)

Brent Lynam: I was happy to get to this summit and back without any aggro (April 2002). From SJ072066 on the right-of-way NE of the hill, cross the fence at the start of the open field and cross again to the left of the fence up through the wood, which affords a bit of cover. Lots of pheasants around here. Eventually pass a small enclosure, guarded by an electric fence, to a rough track. Follow this SW to a forest road, close to a wooden shelter. There were movements in the bushes along here but I think they were deer and not gamekeepers. From here it's not far to a junction, where nearby signs indicate Forest Enterprise operations. Follow the road across and up a long steady gradient (and be prepared to take cover in the trees). About 1.2km from the junction, head up through trees to the skyline and follow the barbed-wire fence west, keeping out of sight of the summer-house (actually visible from the A458). It's possible to cross the fence and follow the lower side of the field (Upper Park no less) out of sight of the house, then cross another fence into the wood on the opposite side, where you'll find the high point. I'm sure there was no one at the house, but I wasn't hanging around to find out. Lots of discarded containers seen en route, even a poison box attached to a tree, so not much sense of conservation. The masses of wild garlic by the Sylfaen brook, close to the A458, concluded an aromatic but rather nervy outing.

Graham Illing: Park at the entrance to Cwm Farm Lane (SJ182058). Follow the public footpath south-east down the hill, through the gate and follow the hedge south. Crash through the forest, traverse the field and cross a stile in the right-hand corner of the field. Go through a gate on the marked track and you can follow the south edge of the forest (at SJ185053). Heading east, cross a couple of barbed-wire fences and you will find the clump of trees on the summit. This is overlooked by a rather nice house. This was a covert bag and I ran like hell when a quad bike seemed to be hunting for me. Fortunately I could pass through the strips of trees quicker than he could, so evaded detection.

Sighty Crag (33, LR80)

David Robinson: There are five things worth knowing before a visit:

My visit, in very poor visibility with drizzle at times, led to the following:

We guys who hills in Blighty bag
Might shy away from Sighty Crag.
It surely is a mighty drag
Enough to make the sprightly flag
When faced with forest, mire and hag
Shrouded in a whity clag.
But conquer and you'll rightly brag
'I found the top of Sighty Crag!'
Descending is a further fag
And goes to show we're slightly mad.

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