Marhofn 212.12 - May 2010

Previous | Contents | Next

The Waterboys featuring So Solid Crew

Members of the tour party who agreed to be interviewed: Alan Dawson, Eddie Dealtry, Bob Kerr, Stewart Logan, Brent Lynam, Richard Mclellan, Richard Speirs, Ian Teasdale, Ken Whyte, Rob Woodall, Jonathan Woods.

Best moments:

RM: Watching the weather reports on the days leading up to the trip and seeing the wind calming and the swell decreasing.

AD: About one hour out from Meabhaig, when the crew cut the engine and pointed out the fin of a whale, visible in the calm sea. It made me realise that I could relax and enjoy the ride that I had been dreading so much.

IT: Simply landing on Boreray, then its summit ridge - pure joy.

RM: The ever-present gannets soaring over the sea; looking down from the ridge of Boreray to Stac Lee silhouetted against a glistening sea; Conachair aglow in the dawn light; the views from Oisebhal; camping on Hirta.

Barbara Brodie on Boreray (photo: Brent Lynam)

BL: The afternoon on Boreray, had the weather been clearer, instead it has to be the following day; Brocken spectres, breathtaking views of Soay from The Cambir, and an incredible walk from Oisebhal to Conachair, with the backdrop of Boreray and the stacs above a fabulous inversion. The climb of Bioda Mor wasn't bad either.

AD: The airy summit ridge of Boreray, with sea and stacs gleaming in the light swirling mists, and the stunning morning walk over Hirta.

JW: Cloud inversions, Brocken spectres, glories, Boreray and the stacs rising from a sea of cloud from the summit of Oisebhal.

SL: Looking over a sea of mist from Conachair to Boreray and thinking that that was not bad for a 70-year-old to get up.

IT: Solitude and sunshine with Rob on the summit of Conachair; not being seasick; leading the tricky pitch on Soay in the morning when it was greasy.

RW: Getting above the slime level on Soay, onto dry rock and looking forward to the ascent.

BK: Reaching the summit of Soay as the sun broke out and the clouds parted, giving us wonderful changing views as the low-lying cloud swirled around the various islands.

Alan Holmes and Ken Whyte (photo: Brent Lynam)

Alan Holmes and Ken Whyte (photo: Brent Lynam)

KW: Summiting Boreray.

ED: Standing on the summit of Cnoc Glas, Soay, with Ken, Bob, Iain, Barbara, Stuart, Rob and Ian, witnessing an inversion with peaks poking through, deep blue sea below, with the knowledge that four St Kilda Marilyns had been bagged.

RM: The enthusiasm of the boat crews; landing on Soay; the ever-changing mists and sunlight of the islands.

JW: Richard Mclellan 'leading' me clipped to a two-metre sling along the exposed traverse around the crag nose to reach the steep grassy slopes of Soay; the cup of tea Alison gave me when safely back on board the boat after Soay.

IT: The tour of the coast - all three trips, but especially the final day with Seamus threading the sea stack; getting to know people on the teams a lot better.

RW: Scrambling up Stac Levenish and finally making it to The Cambir on Hirta.

RS: Boreray and the stacs rising through the cloud inversion; getting off the grass on Soay and back on to the rock above the landing place, and therefore being confident of getting down safely. Also, enjoying a beer in camp after success on Boreray and Soay.

Richard Speirs and Eddie Dealtry (photo: Brent Lynam)

Richard Speirs and Eddie Dealtry (photo: Brent Lynam)

Worst moments:

RS: Having to leave early during the April trip and so missing out on the successes on Boreray and Dun.

IT: Climbing guano on Boreray at Easter; sleepless night due to the generator sound at the campsite.

SL: Giving the fish my breakfast on the sail out. I was obviously very disappointed at not getting up Soay but was not prepared to accept undue aid at the start.

RM: The procrastinated debate on our arrival with the warden.

RW: Being stuck on Hirta while the newbies got to do Dun.

ED: Forming a circle to pay homage to the administrator's representative on Earth, in the dusk with your tent still waiting to be unpacked.

RM: Watching helpless as a large rock rolled from the slopes of Sunadal on Boreray and headed directly for folk waiting below.

JW: Reaching an awkward steep grassy step on the north ridge of Boreray and looking over the west side to see Barbara and Stewart traversing a ledge which looked death-defying. No way was I going along there; it looked like a barrier that was going to stop me, so near to the summit. But I found an easier, much less exposed traverse on the east side.

AD: Half-abseiling, half-slithering and bumping down the guano field on Boreray. I should have just climbed down.

BK: Walking on, holding onto, climbing through and abseiling down ankle-deep guano on Boreray. The memory and smells kept recurring as I tried to clean the guano out of my ropes later.

RW: Being stuck in the boat while the others were on Boreray.

AD: Listening to the warden exercise his power to stop some of the party from landing on Dun and feeling so angry about it on Bioda Mor that it spoiled what should have been a fabulous experience.

RS: Wondering if conditions would prevent the second team from landing on Soay, knowing that those who went first succeeded.

KW: Slithering up the first part of Soay.

RM: Seeing so many young gannets still present and ruling out an ascent of Stac Lee.

BL: Disappointment that the climbers never got the chance to have a go at those stacs.

IT: Bottling out of following Rob onto Stac Leibhinis, when I suddenly realised that I didn't need it that much, and that I was on the verge of breaking a promise to my wife.

Brent Lynam leaving Boreray (photo: Alan Dawson)

Brent Lynam leaving Boreray (photo: Alan Dawson)

Overall impression:

RM: An extremely enjoyable and memorable trip.

BL: A fabulous piece of natural architecture, once you ignore the presence of the MoD.

ED: A trip of a lifetime to an archipelago, made possible by Brent, with birds, bird expert, spectacular crags and blue sea in sunny weather and a low swell.

BK: An excellent, well-organised trip in perfect conditions, with excellent company. It is a shame that we were not allowed to attempt a landing on the stacs for practice, but overall I was very happy to get my St Kildan Marilyn tally up to four.

SL: The weather might well have influenced the overall impression, but I thought the island setting was wonderful.

RS: How lucky we had been with the weather and with the willingness of the boatmen to try to fulfil our ambitions.

AD: A weird conglomeration of exhilaration, awe, anger, frustration, joy, embarrassment, relief and disappointment.

KW: This being my third trip, it had a lot to live up to, but actually it surpassed all expectations.

RW: Fantastic scenery, challenging landings made doable by expert boatmen, great ascents.

IT: I'm unable to disentangle feelings between the three trips that I made last year, but all were great expeditions in the truest sense of the word; exposure to new things, uncertain outcome, team spirit. I recovered a feeling that I hadn't had since I used to go off to far-flung corners of the world, but also a feeling that what once seemed remote and strange now seems easier and achievable.

Most useful piece of gear you took:

BL: The camera.

RM: As always, the stove and billy.

KW: Climbing harness.

ED: Helmet as a bird crap protector; not yellow though, as the gannets considered Brent's yellow one a target.

IT: My climbing gear functioned as usual, but it was useful to have a static Polypro line, provided by Richard M, for landing.

SL: I found a walking pole to be a reassuring extra on the steep slopes. A second pole might have been a hindrance.

BK: My camera - it did a good job of capturing the wonderful scenery in such an amazing place.

RW: Walsh PB fellrunning shoes - perfect for steep grass, scrambling and easyish climbing.

RS: An abseiling device to speed up the descents.

JW: Camera, spare batteries, rock-climbing kit, harness, helmet, walking pole for confidence to stand upright on the steep grass.

IT: The excellent boatmen; Murray, Angus and Seamus.

Rob Woodall, Ken Whyte and Stac Biorach (photo: Bob Kerr)

Rob Woodall, Ken Whyte and Stac Biorach (photo: Bob Kerr)

Will you be going back:

KW: Yes, hopefully to Stac an Armin.

ED: Possibly, given loot and time; there are two remaining Marilyns.

AD: It seems unlikely but, unbelievably considering how much I was dreading it, I haven't entirely ruled it out.

BL: I certainly hope so, primarily to scale Soay.

BK: Yes. When I got back I found out there were two Humps on Hirta. I also intend to keep going back to try to get to the summits of Stac an Armin and Stac Lee, and maybe I'll be able to help someone else complete their Marilyn quest one day.

SL: I would go back to have a go at Soay by the rock-fall route but would not want to leave it for too long as my body is less supple these days. Stac Lee has always been beyond me and I think Stac an Armin now is.

JW: Maybe yes, as Stac an Armin might just be possible for me if I do some training. But probably no, given lack of time and family commitments.

RW: Yes, for the two stacs, if we can find that elusive low-swell window outwith the gannet breeding season.

IT: Yes, because it was great fun, and of course because of the stacs. However, even when region 25 is bagged, I will endeavour to return, as I would like to take the family one day.

RM: I hope so. I just like the wild remoteness of the place and no doubt the challenge of getting there. There are also Stac Lee and Stac an Armin still to climb.

RS: Of course - my rose-tinted specs mean that I'd never forgive myself if I didn't try for the two stacs.

Advice for future baggers:

RS: Allow plenty of holiday time to wait for the weather window.

RM: Make the trip if only to see the stacs, spend the night on Hirta and walk up Conachair. For all except Hirta, equip yourself with abseil device, harness and helmet, and practice using them before you visit the islands.

AD: Ignore the official advice about taking a heavy rucksack full of emergency rations and spare clothes for Soay in case you get stranded. Or if you do take it, leave it at the bottom.

Richard and Denise Mclellan (photo: Brent Lynam)

Richard and Denise Mclellan (photo: Brent Lynam)

BK: The high points of Dun and Hirta are straightforward. If you can land on Soay and get up the first 10m or so then you have cracked it; try to let the slime dry off before you attempt it. For Boreray, wear some old clothes that you can throw out instead of trying to clean guano off them. For both Soay and Boreray, consider a set of Walshes instead of hiking boots, as you need as much grip as possible on the very steep exposed grass even when it's dry - it would have been lethal in the wet.

RW: Practice rope-handling and abseiling skills before you go, then relax and enjoy the bagging.

BL: Avoid potential accommodation problems by chartering no more than one boat per trip.

SL: My unforgiving stiff boots were a menace on the scrambles; more flexible boots or climbing shoes would be much better.

IT: Go and enjoy the place, it's fantastic and easier to get to than you think. Make sure that you have abseiled once before you go, and have a sling, karabiner and abseil device.

JW: Make sure you know how to abseil, make sure you've got the head for heights and feel comfortable on very steep grass; take fell shoes or boots with the grippiest soles you've got, and try to go for three nights, even if it is more expensive.

ED: You'll need thick skin.

Anything else:

IT: The Internet contributed as much to our success as anything, regarding weather forecasts and general planning exchanges.

RW: The weather was just good enough to allow us to do what we were allowed to; another day and we'd have been more frustrated over the lack of access to the stacs.

RM: Disappointed at not having stayed a few more days and not seeing a St Kilda mouse.

ED: Advice to administrators: employ a psychiatrist for your staff. Advice to military: take your rubbish away when you leave.

SL: Brent deserves a massive vote of thanks for all the effort required to organise a stupendous visit.

Stewart Logan on Conachair (photo: Alan Dawson)

Stewart Logan on Conachair (photo: Alan Dawson)

Soay summit team (photo: Stuart Benn)

Soay summit team (photo: Stuart Benn)

Iain Brown and Alison Richardson on Boreray (photo: Alan Dawson)

Iain Brown and Alison Richardson on Boreray (photo: Alan Dawson)

RS: It was very noticeable how euphoric everyone was at camp on the final evening, especially those who had succeeded on the four main islands.

JW: Be polite to the warden and humour him, even when he wants to tell you in encyclopaedic detail everything about the islands, and it's already getting dark and you've still got to put up your tent and cook your meal.

BK: There was excellent teamwork from everyone involved and the organisers did a fantastic job. Thank you very much.

IT: The situation regarding access may not be ideal and people may not agree with SNH or the RSPB or the military, but can we all play along and not muck it up for anyone else who might like to visit to bag or climb. Access is a right, yes, but it's a fragile and hard-won right and a compromise between many conflicting interests. We do carry an awesome responsibility for those that come after us. I think that a lot was achieved last year. Long may it continue.

Conachair and Mullach Mor from Soay (photo: Bob Kerr)

Conachair and Mullach Mor from Soay (photo: Bob Kerr)

Richard Wood, Brian Ewing, Stewart Logan and Mullach Bi, Hirta

Richard Wood, Brian Ewing, Stewart Logan and Mullach Bi, Hirta

Gannets and the Atlantic from Boreray summit ridge

Gannets and the Atlantic from Boreray summit ridge

Village Bay and Dun from Hirta (photos: Alan Dawson)

Village Bay and Dun from Hirta (photos: Alan Dawson)

Leapy Lee

Stac Lee from Boreray (photo: Alan Dawson)

Stac Lee from Boreray (photo: Alan Dawson)

Previous | Contents | Next