Donald Shiach: These hills give a great day out, and the best way back is to follow the south side of the deliciously-named Glen Gluitanen, but keep about 50 metres up the hillside. Do not be tempted to try crossing the River Moidart - it is astonishingly deep, the ground on the south is a swamp, while on the north it is cow-churned mud of Flanders proportions.
